The 1960s and 1970s were transformative decades for Rolex and its flagship dive watch, the Submariner. Building on the innovations of the 1950s, Rolex continued to refine and evolve the Submariner, solidifying its reputation as a premier tool watch for divers and a symbol of luxury and precision. This article delves into the significant developments of the Rolex Submariner during these two decades, highlighting the key models, technological advancements, and design changes that shaped the watch’s legacy.
The Introduction of the 5512 Model: Crown Guards and Chronometer Certification
In 1959, Rolex introduced the Submariner 5512, a model that would play a crucial role in the evolution of the Submariner line. The 5512 was powered by the 1570 movement and, later, the 1560 movement. One of the most significant new features of the 5512 was the inclusion of protective crown guards, a design innovation that would become a hallmark of the Submariner. The first crown guards were square-ended in profile, offering robust protection for the winding crown. However, as the 1960s progressed, Rolex transitioned to a pointed profile for the crown guards before finally settling on a more rounded profile in the mid-1960s. This rounded design accompanied a slightly thicker case, further enhancing the durability of the Submariner.
The 5512 was also notable for being marked as an Officially Certified Chronometer, a designation that underscored Rolex’s commitment to precision. During this period, Rolex began using the term “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” on its chronometer watches, although this wording was not immediately marked on the dial.
The Transition to New Models: The Decline of the 6536 and 6538
By 1965, the earlier Submariner models 6536 and 6538 had ceased production, making way for the new generation of Submariners. However, the 5508 model continued to be produced, maintaining its position as a non-chronometer Submariner until it was eventually phased out.
The Debut of the 5513 Model: A New Standard
In late 1962, Rolex introduced the Submariner 5513, a model that would become one of the most iconic and enduring in the Submariner line. Initially fitted with the non-chronometer 1530 movement, the 5513 also featured the pointed crown guards that were becoming standard in the Submariner design. Later, the 5513 transitioned to the 1520 movement, which was available with either 17 or 26 jewels, depending on the country in which it was sold. The 5513, like its predecessor, was produced with a gloss black dial, a design feature that would continue until the early 1970s.
During this period, both the 5512 and 5513 Submariners were also available with an optional Explorer-type dial, which featured numerals at the three, six, and nine o’clock positions. This dial option added a unique touch to the Submariner, appealing to those who desired a more distinctive look.
The Introduction of the Submariner 1680: Adding the Date Feature
In 1966, Rolex introduced a new Submariner model, the 1680, which brought a significant innovation to the Submariner line—a date feature. This was the first time that a Submariner had been equipped with a date function, expanding the watch’s utility for both divers and everyday wearers. For the first few years, the word “Submariner” was printed in red on the 1680’s dial, creating a striking contrast against the black background. However, from 1974 onwards, the Submariner text was gradually changed to white, a transition that did not occur simultaneously across all markets, adding to the model’s collectibility.
The introduction of the 1680 coincided with the rising popularity of scuba diving, and Rolex seized the opportunity to officially “launch” the Rolex diving watch to a broader audience. This period marked the formal christening of the Submariner, which was given a depth rating of 200 meters (660 feet). However, Rolex appeared to be cautious about fully committing to the Submariner name in the early years, as it was not consistently used on all subsequent models. This hesitation is evident from Rolex’s registration of several alternative model names in 1954, such as Frogman, Skin Diver, Dive-O-Graph, and Deep Sea Diver. The Submariner name was not officially registered to Rolex until the 1960s.
The Confusion Over Model Names: The 6204, 6205, and 6200 Models
The question of which model was the first Submariner has long been a topic of debate among collectors and historians. The 6204 model, formally christened as the Submariner, was initially given a depth rating of 200 meters. However, it is believed that this model may have initially existed with a smaller depth rating before being upgraded. Similarly, the 6205 model, which appeared in 1954, did not display the word “Submariner” on its dial, adding to the confusion.
Interestingly, some 6204 models have been found with the word “Submariner” obscured by black paint, suggesting that Rolex may have been uncertain about using the name at the time of manufacture. By late 1954, however, the Submariner name was consistently used on all three models—6200, 6204, and 6205.
A 1970s Rolex brochure further complicates the timeline by stating that the first Submariner was launched in 1953 with a depth rating of 100 meters (330 feet). This statement raises the possibility that the 6205 model was the first Submariner, but the evidence in favor of the 6200, especially its chronological numbering, suggests otherwise.
The Trieste Expedition: Rolex’s Deep Sea Legacy
The 1960s also saw Rolex make history with its association with the Trieste, a bathyscaphe piloted by Jacques Piccard, the son of Auguste Piccard. On January 23, 1960, the Trieste made a world-record dive to 11,000 meters (35,798 feet) in the Mariana Trench, with a Rolex Deep Sea Special attached to its exterior. The watch survived the immense pressure, a testament to Rolex’s engineering prowess. Rolex continues to celebrate this achievement in its promotional material, highlighting the brand’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of what is possible in horology.
In June 2000, one of these rare Deep Sea Specials was sold at Christie’s in London for £275,000 ($112,500), underscoring the watch’s historical significance and value to collectors.
The 5512 Model and the Evolution of Crown Guards
As mentioned earlier, the 5512 model introduced crown guards to the Submariner, a feature that would become standard on all subsequent models. The early square-ended crown guards were eventually replaced with a pointed profile, which was in turn replaced by a more rounded profile in the mid-1960s. These changes were part of Rolex’s continuous efforts to refine and improve the Submariner, ensuring it remained at the forefront of dive watch technology.
The James Bond Connection and Pop Culture Influence
The Submariner’s association with James Bond, particularly the 6538 model, further elevated the watch’s status as a cultural icon. The 6538, along with the 6200 and 5510 models, appeared in the first four James Bond films, earning the Submariner the nickname “James Bond model.” This connection has only added to the watch’s allure and desirability, making it one of the most collectible and recognizable watches in the world.
Conclusion: The Submariner’s Legacy in the 1960s and 1970s
The 1960s and 1970s were decades of significant innovation and evolution for the Rolex Submariner. From the introduction of crown guards and the addition of a date feature to its association with deep-sea exploration and James Bond, the Submariner cemented its place as one of the most iconic and respected watches in the world. Rolex’s relentless pursuit of perfection and its ability to adapt to the changing needs of its customers ensured that the Submariner would remain at the forefront of luxury watchmaking for decades to come.
Final Note: The information provided in this article comes from Vintage Rolex® Sports Models: A Complete Visual Reference & Unauthorized History by Martin Skeet.