The 1950s was a pivotal decade for Rolex, marked by the birth of one of its most iconic timepieces—the Rolex Submariner. As the sport of scuba diving grew in popularity, Rolex recognized the need for a reliable underwater watch that could help divers track their time below the surface, thereby avoiding decompression illness (DCI), commonly known as “the bends.” This foresight led to the creation of the Submariner, a watch that would become synonymous with precision, durability, and style. This article delves into the development and evolution of the Submariner during its formative years in the 1950s.
The Birth of the Submariner: The Early 1950s
Scuba diving was an emerging sport in the early 1950s, and Rolex quickly saw the potential for a specialized timepiece that could meet the needs of divers. The result was the Submariner, a watch specifically designed for underwater use. By 1954, Rolex had introduced three models of the Submariner, each offering unique features tailored to diving enthusiasts.
The 1954 Basel Spring Watch Fair: Official Launch of the Submariner 6204
The Submariner 6204 was officially launched at the Basel Spring Watch Fair in 1954, marking a significant milestone in Rolex’s history. This model was fitted with the A260 movement and, although the dial did not display a depth rating, Rolex certified the watch as waterproof to 200 meters (660 feet) in its accompanying catalog. This was a groundbreaking feature at the time, setting a new standard for diving watches.
The Submariner 6205 and 6200: Variations and Features
Alongside the 6204, Rolex introduced the Submariner 6205 in 1954. This model, also equipped with the A260 movement, was depth-rated to 100 meters (330 feet) and used the same watch case as the 6204. However, the 6200 model stood out with its thicker case and larger winding crown, marked “Brevet,” a French term meaning “patented.” The 6200 was depth-rated to 200 meters and housed the A296 movement, a predecessor to the A260.
All three models—6200, 6204, and 6205—shared common design elements, including pencil-shaped luminous hands with a circular tip on the seconds hand. The bezels were divided into five-minute sections, marked alternately with rectangles and numerals. Notably, none of these early models featured crown guards to protect the winding crown; this design element would not be introduced until the launch of the 5512 model in 1959.
The Mystery of the First Submariner: Examining the Evidence
The official launch of the Submariner 6204 at the 1954 Basel Fair led many collectors and dealers to assume that it was the first Submariner model. As a result, it was often believed that the 6205 and 6200 models were released subsequently. However, a closer examination of the evidence suggests a different story.
Chronological Numbering and Movement Analysis
Rolex typically used chronological numbering sequences for its watch models, where higher numbers signified later launch dates. This numbering convention suggests that the first three Submariner models were the 6200, 6204, and 6205, in that order. Furthermore, the A260 movement fitted to the 6204 and 6205 was an improvement on the earlier A296 movement found in the 6200. This sequence indicates that the 6200 may have been the true first Submariner, despite its official naming coming later.
Dial Design and the Connection to the Explorer Models
Another piece of evidence lies in the design of the dials. Early versions of the 6200 model were fitted with dials similar to those used in the 1953 Explorer models 6298 and 6150. These dials featured an equilateral triangle at the twelve o’clock position, a design element that differed from the triangles on the 6204 and 6205 dials. This suggests that Rolex had already been producing a diving watch in 1953, even though it had not yet been named the Submariner.
The Question of Depth Ratings and Model Names
Initially, it appears that the 6204 model was released with a depth rating of 100 meters, which was later increased to 200 meters. Interestingly, Rolex used a single dial blank for all three models, onto which the model name and relevant depth rating were printed. This same style of dial blank was likely used on the first Milgauss watch, model 6541, which explains why this rare early model had its name overprinted above the six o’clock position rather than below the twelve o’clock position, where it was later placed.
Continuous Improvement: The Evolution of the Submariner
Rolex is known for its relentless pursuit of perfection, and the Submariner was no exception. By late 1955, the 6204 and 6205 models were both fitted with the new 1030 movement, prompting a change in model numbers. The 6204 was re-numbered as the 6538, and the 6205 became the 6536. These new models also featured slightly larger winding crowns.
Design Changes in the Late 1950s
By 1956, Rolex introduced significant design changes to the Submariner. The luminous circle on the seconds hand was moved further down the shaft, and the “Mercedes” hands were adopted. Additionally, the 6538 model’s watch case was thickened to match the design of the 6200, and the model number was updated to 6538A. Once Rolex had used up the thinner cases, the model number reverted to 6538.
Around this time, a new bezel design was introduced for both the 6536 and 6538 models. The triangle at the twelve o’clock position was painted red and featured small rectangular markers showing the first fifteen minutes. Later versions of the bezel had a silver triangle and slightly elongated minute marks. During this period, the seconds hand on the Submariner, as well as on the Explorer and Turn-O-Graph models, was painted white with a larger luminous circle than before.
The Introduction of the 1530 Movement and New Models
In early 1958, the 6200 model was fitted with the 1530 movement and re-numbered as the 5510. By late 1958, the 6536/1 model also received the 1530 movement and was re-numbered as 5508. This model introduced a new square-shaped typeface for the numerals on the bezel, replacing the previously more rounded typeface. Additionally, an Explorer-type dial with numerals at the three, six, and nine o’clock positions was offered as an option on several models, including the 6538A, 6538, and 6200.
The James Bond Connection: Submariner’s Role in Pop Culture
The early Submariners without crown guards, specifically the 6538, 6200, and 5510 models, became known as “James Bond models” after appearing in the first four James Bond films. This association with the iconic spy character only added to the allure and desirability of the Submariner, cementing its place in pop culture. Today, these models are highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts alike.
The Introduction of Crown Guards: The 5512 Model
In 1959, Rolex introduced the 5512 model, which featured a significant new design element: protective crown guards. Initially, these crown guards had a square-ended profile, but they were later refined to a more rounded shape. The 5512 model was powered by the 1570 movement (and later the 1560) and was marked as an Officially Certified Chronometer. At this stage, Rolex introduced the wording “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified,” which was initially not marked on the dial.
Conclusion: The Submariner’s Legacy in the 1950s
The 1950s was a decade of innovation and evolution for the Rolex Submariner. From its inception as a specialized diving watch to its rise as an icon in both horology and pop culture, the Submariner has remained a symbol of Rolex’s commitment to precision, durability, and style. The continuous improvements and refinements made during this decade laid the foundation for the Submariner’s enduring legacy, making it one of the most recognizable and respected watches in the world.
Final Note: The information provided in this article comes from Vintage Rolex® Sports Models: A Complete Visual Reference & Unauthorized History by Martin Skeet.