The early 1950s marked the rise of scuba diving as a popular sport, and Rolex quickly recognized the critical need for divers to have a reliable and accurate way to measure their time underwater. This was essential for avoiding decompression illness, commonly known as “the bends.” In response, Rolex designed the Submariner, a watch specifically engineered for underwater use. By 1954, three models of the Submariner had been introduced, each with unique features that catered to the needs of divers.
The Birth of the Submariner: The 1954 Basel Spring Watch Fair
The Submariner 6204 was officially launched at the Basel Spring Watch Fair in 1954. Equipped with the A260 movement, this model did not display a depth rating on its dial, but Rolex certified it as waterproof to 200 meters (660 feet) in their catalog. Alongside the 6204, Rolex also introduced the Submariner 6205 in the same year, which was depth-rated to 100 meters (330 feet) and shared the same movement and watch case as the 6204.
The Evolution of the Submariner: The 6200, 6204, and 6205 Models
The third model, the 6200, featured a thicker case and a larger winding crown marked “Brevet,” meaning patented in French. This model was depth-rated to 200 meters and powered by the A296 movement. All three models—6200, 6204, and 6205—had luminous pencil-shaped hands with a circle on the tip of the seconds hand. The bezel was divided into five-minute sections, marked alternately with rectangles and numerals. None of these models featured crown guards, which were not introduced until 1959 with the launch of the 5512 model.
The Debate Over the First Submariner
The official 1954 launch of the 6204 at Basel led many dealers and collectors to assume that it was the first Submariner model. Consequently, it was often believed that the 6205 and 6200 models were released after the 6204. However, a closer examination of the evidence suggests otherwise. Rolex’s chronological numbering sequence indicates that the 6200 was likely the first Submariner, followed by the 6204 and 6205. Additionally, the A260 movement used in the 6204 and 6205 improved upon the earlier A296 movement found in the 6200.
The Submariner’s Design Evolution
The dials of the early 6200 models were similar to those used in the 1953 Explorer models, featuring an equilateral triangle at the twelve o’clock position. This design element differed from the triangles on the 6204 and 6205 dials, suggesting that Rolex had been producing this watch for scuba diving as early as 1953, even though it was not yet named Submariner.
The Transition to New Models: 6538 and 6536
By late 1955, Rolex had introduced new movements and model numbers for the Submariner. The 6204 was re-numbered as the 6538, and the 6205 became the 6536. Both models featured the new 1030 movement and slightly larger winding crowns. The 6536 model later included a chronometer version of the 1030 movement, known as the 6536/1.
The Introduction of the Mercedes Hands and Design Refinements
In 1956, the design of the Submariner hands changed, with the luminous circle on the seconds hand moving further down the shaft. The so-called “Mercedes” hands were also adopted during this time. Later in 1956, the 6538 model’s watch case was thickened, and the model number was updated to 6538A. Once Rolex had exhausted the thinner cases, the model number reverted to 6538.
The 5510 and 5508 Models: The Next Generation
In early 1958, the 6200 was fitted with the 1530 movement and re-numbered as the 5510. By late 1958, the 6536/1 model also received the 1530 movement and was re-numbered as 5508. This model introduced a new square-shaped typeface for the numerals on the bezel, replacing the previously rounded typeface. An Explorer-type dial with numerals at the three, six, and nine o’clock positions was offered as an option on several models, including the 6538A, 6538, and 6200.
The Submariner in Pop Culture: The James Bond Connection
Today, the early Submariners without crown guards are known to collectors as “James Bond models,” named after their appearance in the first four James Bond films. These models, specifically the 6538, 6200, and 5510, have become iconic symbols of both Rolex’s heritage and the enduring appeal of the Bond franchise.
The 5512 Model: Introducing Crown Guards
In 1959, Rolex launched the 5512 model, powered by the 1570 movement (and later the 1560). This model introduced the new design feature of protective crown guards, initially with a square-ended profile, which later evolved into a more rounded shape. The 5512, like the 6538 model, was marked as an Officially Certified Chronometer, with the designation “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” appearing on the dial.
The 5513 and 1680 Models: Expanding the Submariner Line
In late 1962, Rolex debuted the 5513 model, initially fitted with the non-chronometer 1530 movement. This model also featured pointed crown guards and later used the 1520 movement. In 1966, Rolex introduced the 1680 model, which added a date feature to the Submariner range. The word “Submariner” was printed in red on this model’s dial for the first few years, before gradually changing to white from 1974 onward.
The Legacy of the Submariner: A Testament to Rolex’s Innovation
The Submariner’s legacy is a testament to Rolex’s commitment to innovation, precision, and quality. Over the decades, the Submariner has undergone numerous refinements and improvements, evolving into one of the most iconic and sought-after dive watches in the world. The Submariner’s journey from its inception in the early 1950s to its present-day status as a cultural icon reflects Rolex’s enduring dedication to excellence.
Final Note: The information provided in this blog post comes from Vintage Rolex® Sports Models: A Complete Visual Reference & Unauthorized History by Martin Skeet.